Stern Lightning startet nicht; er blinkt nur 2 x, dann brummt er

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  • fourth flash bis sixth flash
    Display Spoiler

    Fourth Flash Completed:
    The Fakers Guide: a fourth flash means the U10 PIA (6821) is good.No fourth flash means U10 (6821 PIA) or its socket are bad. Or battery corrosion had broken a trace going to U10.Or the chip leading to U10 is bad, which is U20 (4502).
    Techno Guide: The U9 CPU chip now tests the first 6821 PIAchip. There are two of these chips on the MPU board, which areidentical and interchangable. The test for both is the same.
    To determine if a PIA chip is good, the U9 CPU does the following:
    1. The CPU accesses, by means of input RS0, RS1, CS0, CS1 and CS2each of the two full byte registers used to store the port initializationinformation. If does this, one register at a time. After it completesthe first register, it repeats for the second. It goes through 256tests similar to that used to check each byte in U7 (second flash). Ifeach time the CPU writes a word into the register, it can read the sameword back, it continues to test until completion.
    2. The CPU accesses, by means of input RS0, RS1, CS0, CS1 and CS2,each of two full byte registers used as data output registers whenPA0 to PA7 and PB0 to PB7 are used as outputs. It does thesame type of test on each register as described just above. Again ifno faults are found, the test is continued until completion.
    3. The CPU then accesses, by means of input RS0, RS1, CS0, CS1 and CS2, the two ports CA2 and CB2. The port is initialized as an output. The portis then written into to see if it can store a "1" and then a "0".
    A total of 4 x 256 + 4 (=1028) test steps are required to test thePIA chip. However, there are internal buffer amplifiers used with the PB0 to PB7 output registers and CB2 port register which can not be testedby the CPU. Access is only to the register; if the buffer is open, it doesnot interfere with the registers ability to be written into and readfrom by the CPU. It is this uncertainity that reduces the accuracy ofthese test to 99.5%.
    Also check and make sure that the MPU connector J1 and the lamp driver connector J1 are not mixed up! These two connectors are about 4 inches apart, and are keyed the same. If only three MPU LED flashesare seen, this problem can also sometimes show the score displays with an '8' or a '9' in the hundreds place.
    Also I recently fixed a game (Bobby Orr Power Play)where sometimes it would not get the fourth MPU flash,but sometimes it would get all seven. If it did boot, the score displays wouldflicker and only show some of the six digits.The problem was a trace going to U10 on the component side of the MPUright near the battery that was intermittent from corrosion.After I cleaned up the corrosion (sanded and neutralized) and repairedthe broken trace (it was obviously open after sanding), the MPU booted andthe game worked correctly.
    Fifth Flash Completed:
    The Fakers Guide: a fifth flash means the U11 PIA (6821) is good.No fifth flash means U11 (6821 PIA) or itssocket are bad. Note the flipper enable relaywill usually click on/off at about the fifth flash.The lack of a fifth flash could also be a bad resistorconnecting to U11 like R134. Another issue could be a bad score display,which can cause the MPU board to stop during the 5th LED diagnostics.Disconnecting all the score displays (power off), then reconnectingthem one at a time (power off) and rebooting can help identify a bad displaythat is dragging down the fifth MPU LED flash.
    Techno Guide: Same test is performed on U11 as was performedon U10. See above.
    Sixth Flash Completed*:
    The Fakers Guide: a sixth flash means the PIA at U11 (6821) andthe U12 timer (5550 chip is good. No sixth flash means either PIA U11 (6821) or its socket is bad, or the U12 (555) timer is bad.Lack of the 6th flash (five flashes only) can also mean a problems withthe zero-crossing detector. Often this isthe MPU board's R113 resistor (2k ohm, near the J4connector) is open. This resistor takes the 43 volt DC coil power tothe zero-crossing detector circuitry and normally runs hot. Hence itmay eventually go open, so check it if only 5 flashes from the LED are seen.Thanks to Ray J. for this tip.
    Techno Guide: The U9 CPU chip monitors PIA2, port CA1 (U11). Iftransitions from high to low are detected, the CPU decides the DisplayInterrupt Generator is working. If U12, a 555 timer, or any associated circuitcomponent fails, the CPU will not flash the LED the sixth time.
    * Note on Baby Pacman and Granny and the Gators, this flash stepis skipped and not tested.

    Alive and kicking
  • und der 7. flash:
    Display Spoiler

    Seventh (Last) Flash Completed**:
    The Fakers Guide: Getting the seventh flash means the CPU board has passed all self-tests. After the 7th flash, the LEDshould have a very dim glow to it (this "dimness" occurs becausethe game is strobing the switches), and the game should be in 'attract' mode.No last LED flash generally means there's no +43 volts DC for the solenoids (power transformer fuse F4 isprobably blown), PIA U10 (6821) or its socket are bad, or U14 is bad.
    Remember the 7th flash is looking for 43 volts (or 6 volts AC in the caseof Baby Pac's last flash) on the MPU board. Note this test for voltage is performed on Baby Pac too(the prior flash step is skipped, giving Baby Pac a total of 6 LED flashes).This is done thru PIA U10's CB1 port. The PIA is looking for the zero-crossof the 43 volts (or 6 volts for Baby Pac). If 43 volts is not present (rectifierboard F4 fuse blown), the last flash will not occur.
    If the game locks_up after the 7th flash, try unplugging the sound card and reboot. If it then works check the isolation power diode CR3on the sound card - sometimes this bad diode on the sound board can lower the 43 voltsenough to stop the MPU board's 7th flash (Star Trek comes to mind). Also Check the solenoid driver board capC23 is in good condition. There is also a chance the 555 timer chip and/or C17 could be bad on the MPU board.
    The 43 (or 6) volts can be "faked" and not supplied(for example if you are booting the MPU board on the work bench),and the last LED flash can happen. Just connect the top leg of resistor R23 (leg closest to chip U12) to the top leg of resistor R17 (leg closest to TP3)using an alligator test lead.
    Techno Guide: The U9 CPU chip monitors PIA1 port CB1 (U10). If transistion from high to low are detected, the CPU decides that the zero crossing detector is working. If U14 fails and the CB1 line is stuckhigh or low, the test will also fail. The zero crossing detector circuitinput is the +43 volts DC line that is used for the solenoids. If the fusein that line (F4 on the power transformer module) is blown when the gameis turned on, the CPU will not flash the LED the seventh time.
    ** Note on Baby Pacman and Granny and the Gators there is no 7th LED flash.**These games only had six flashes instead of seven. The easiest way todetermine if the MPU board is a -133 designed for Baby Pac/Gators and 6 flashes is tolook at the J4 connector (lower left corner) around pin 19. Between L1 andL2 (the very large inductors that look like 2 watt resistors) is eithera diode (cr52) or a resistor (r113). If it's a diode, this is a -133 MPUboard and there will only be 6 flashes. If it's a resistor, it is a -35or -17 MPU board and there should be 7 flashes. Converting the -133 MPU to a -35 MPU is very easy do. Just replace the 1N4148 diode at CR52 with a 2k ohm 1/4 watt resistor.New EPROMs will need to be burned too of courseFor more information on the -133 MPU board see here.
    Game Initialization.
    The U9 CPU chip now initializes the two PIA's U10 and U11, assigningto each port its role as either an input or an output, as required.It then clears out U7 (6810 RAM). Now the CPU takes a picture of thesettings of fixed switches S1 to S32 on the MPU board. It stores this"picture" in memory in chip U7. The CPU next jumps to a routine which turns on the "Game Over" feature light, lights the "Ball in Play"light, and the "Credit Indicator" light if there are credits storedin memory. It resets the drop targets and activates the saucer kickersor any kicker associated with a playfield device that can trapthe ball and keep it out of the outhole. It then energizes the coinlockout solenoid to allow the game to accept coins (unless the creditmaximum was met). Playfield and backbox feature lightsassociated with and appropriate to animation effects are turned on.With the game tested and initialized, the CPU now divides its time between monitoring momentary switches for closure (coin switch, creditbutton) and updating displays (lamps and score registers).
    Problems/Solutions with the Seventh Flash.
    Of course first verify that the MPU board is *not* a -133 modelwith Baby Pacman or Granny and the Gator EPROMs (hint: ifU2 and U6 are a 2732 and 2532, suspect a -133 MPU board).A few paragraphs above describes how to tell if it is a -133 MPU board.
    If fuse F4 is blown on the solenoid board, the seventh flashwill not occur. But what if there is a problem on the playfield whichis forcing this fuse to blow (stopping the final LED flash on the MPU board,hence stopping your MPU diagnostics)?
    The easiest way to deal with this is to remove the solenoid connectorsfrom the solenoid driver board to the playfield. These connectors areon the left side of the solenoid driver board, and the one connector atthe bottom right of the board too. This should allow the F4 fuse to be replaced,and the completion of the MPU booting process.
    To help find the playfield coil that is causing the F4 fuse to blow, replace the connectors one at a time on the solenoid driver board (with the game off), and rebootthe game. This will help issolate the bad coil.
    Another thing to try: remove the under-the-playfield coil fuse, andreplace fuse F4. If F4 does not blow, then one of the coils underthe playfield is somehow shorted or staying energized (and blowingthe solenoid driver F4 fuse). If fuse F4 still blows, there is eithera problem with the backbox knocker, or the cabinet coin door lockoutcoil, the solenoid bridge rectifier (on the rectifier board), or the rectifier board's varister.
    Also try removing connectors J1 and J3 from the rectifier board(this moves the solenoid power back a step further, not allowing it to get any furtherthan the rectifier board).Replace fuse F4 on the solenoid driver board, and turn the game on. If the fuse still blows, the solenoid bridge rectifier (on the rectifier board) or the rectifier board's varisteris probably at fault.
    If it is a coil under the playfield, check the coils to see which one energizes whenthe game is powered on. Or disconnect a wire on each solenoid, and re-attach each wire,one at a time, until the fuse blows. At this point it could be the coil, coil diode,or coil driver transistor at fault.
    Still No Seventh Flash - Other Things to Check.
    First check TP3 and make sure there is 21 volts DC (of course this assumes fuse F4 is not blown on the solenoid board).If there is still no seventh flash, here are some other things to check. Remember all the components mentionedbelow are in the battery corrosion area.
    • Check resistor R17 (150k). If this resistor goes open, or is not making good contactthe circuit board, there will be no 7th flash. This resistorcommonly fails.
    • Check resistor R16 (2k).
    • Check resistor R18 (1.5 meg).
    • Check diodes CR52 and CR49 (1N4148 or 1N914).
    • Check the IRQ line (U9 pin 4 to U10,U11 pins 37,38) andresistor R134 (4.7k) which ties the IRQ to +5 volts.
    If there is still no seventh flash, the last thing to check is chip U14 (4572).
    After the seventh flash the bally mpu enables the IRQ line. If the IRQ line is
    broken, the will restart over and over.
    Faking the 7th Flash.
    If you are diagnosing a Bally MPU on the bench and don't have a 43 voltpower supply, there is a way to fake the MPU board into doing the 7thflash. This may also be useful if all other things have been triedand there's still no seventh flash.
    To fake out the MPU board, use an alligator jumper wire and connect the top of resistor R23 (leg closest to U12) and the top of resistor R17 (leg closest to TP3). This makes the MPU think the 43 volts is present, and will allow the board to fully boot (7 flashes).This happens because the 43 volts is reduced to 5 volts and then converted into an "impulses train". This signal comes from pin U10 pin 18 and then the MPU monitors this impulse train signal. If the signal is present the MPU thinksthe 43 volts must be Ok. By making the connection between the tops of R17 and R23 we simulate the presence of the 43 volt impulses train.
    Problems After the 7th flash (game sitll doesn't work).
    In a normal boot-up sequence, after the seventh LED flash,the LED glows very dim (some LEDs show this more than others).Occassionally, a game will do the seven flashes, but won'tgo into "attract" (game over) mode.
    Stern MPU-200 boards in particular can have problems where theseventh flash is seen, but the game does not work.Of course the first thing to check (especially on multiballgames) is if all the pinballs are installed andthe ball trough switches are working. If there is a single dip switch on anywhere, the MPU boots (seven flashes), then some score digitson all displays come on for about five seconds, then all displays go out (display blanking). Slam switch (and its capacitor) arenot the problem!
    So what could be the problem? The answer is usually a bad 5101RAM chip. Especially on Stern MPU boards, the 5101 RAM chip(s)need to be the proper speed (100ns, unlike Bally which can usea 300ns 5101 RAM chip), or the game will not work (eventhough it passed the 5101 self-test at power-on).

    Alive and kicking
  • Hi, lieber Sunshine, Startrek und FRG.
    Mit den neuen Speichern/IC…blinkt es 7 x und er geht ins Spiel.
    Es klappte gut…nur die oberen Flipperfinger gingen einer nach dem anderen nicht mehr.
    Spulen fest. Der Ballauswurf ging auch nicht mehr…Spule aber ganz.
    Es läuft ja ein Test durch.
    Werde die Spulen wechseln und schauen.
    Danke euch.
    Nette Gemeinschaft
    Gunmaster
  • Kurz und schmerzlos:

    Gunmaster wrote:

    Der PIN registriert nicht, dass eine Kugel raus ist, d.h. er schießt keine neue raus…?
    Schaltertest durchführen und insbesondere die drei Outholekontakte für die drei Kugeln überprüfen.

    Gunmaster wrote:

    Die Fingerspulen sind drin, aber eine läuft heiß.
    Woran könnte das liegen?
    Haltewicklung wird vermutlich nicht zugeschaltet. Kann sein das der EOS nicht aufmacht oder die Spule falsch verlötet ist.
    Ich bin Don Juan de Floh, ich hatte über tausend Flipper... ;)
  • <p>Hi,</p><p>noch eine Nachfrage. Der PIN registriert nicht, dass eine Kugel raus ist, d.h. er schießt keine neue raus…?</p><p>Mal schauen, wenn die Fingerspulen drin sind.</p><p>VG</p><p>Gunmaster</p>
    Hi Gröflaz,
    also die 5? Outhole Kontakte müssten funktionieren.
    Drei Bein Ballausschuß und 2 Kontakte unter den Löchern?
    der Ball wird , wenn er rausgeht, zum Ausschuß geworfen.
    Dann liegen z.B. alle drei Kugeln unten parat.
    Es wird immer noch keine abgeschossen.
    Flipperfingerspulen vom Oberdeck werden nach Austausch, immer noch sehr warm. Was heißt Haltewicklung…was könnte man tun?
    sry, lauter Fragen….
    Herzliche Grüße aus Süddeutschland
  • Hallo Gunny,

    "..müssten funktionieren.." reicht leider nicht. Sie müssen funktionieren, sonst denkt der Flipper eine Kugel fehlt noch und wartet darauf, bevor er eine neue auswirft. Gehe dazu in den Schaltertest und betätige jeden einzelnen Schalter dort, indem du eine Kugel darüber rollen lässt.

    Der EOS Schalter sitzt neben der Flipperspule und schaltet die Powerwicklung ab. Wenn der Flipperfinger aktiviert wird, sind beide Wicklungen der Spule aktiv, die Power- und die Holdwicklung. Ist der Finger oben angekommen, wird durch einen kleinen Hebel der EOS Schalter geöffnet, wodurch die Powerwicklung abgeschaltet wird und nur noch die schwache Holdwicklung aktiv bleibt. Die Powerwicklung ist nicht dafür gebaut, lange unter Strom zu stehen sonder nur ganz kurz. Bleibt sie an, wird sie heiß und brennt letztendlich durch.

    Grüße
    André
    Alive and kicking
  • Hi André, ich bekomm das nich so hin, mit dem Outholetest.
    Muss ich den Kontakttest machen? Bild und …?
    danke für deine Mühen
    Gunmaster
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  • Ja genau, den Kontakttest. Du drückst den Knopf innen in der Kassentür 5x, dann bist du im Kontakttest. Die Kugeln müssen hierzu entfernt worden sein und alle Droptargets oben sein. Wenn irgendein Kontakt geschlossen, also aktiviert ist, macht der Flipper ein nerviges Geräusch und zeigt dessen Nummer im Display an. Wenn mehrere geschlossen sind, werden deren Nummer nacheinander angezeigt. Manchmal ist auch irgendwo ein anderer Kontakt verbogen und wird angezeigt, den musst du dann auch zuerst reparieren (gerade biegen). Wenn alles OK ist, zeigt er nichts oder 00 an (ich weiß es nicht mehr).
    Ich vermute du mußt das Apron abschrauben um an die Schalter zu kommen. Jetzt schiebst du langsam eine Kugel über die Schalter der Balltruhe und schaust, ob jeder davon aktiviert wird, also dessen Nummer angezeigt wird, verbunden mit einem Ton. Das sind die Schalter 33 bis 35. Zusätzlich prüfst du noch, ob der Schalter im Kugelausloch funktioniert, das ist Nummer 04.

    Falls einer der drei von 33 bis 35 nicht funktioniert, denkt der Flipper eine Kugel fehlt und wartet auf deren Eintreffen, bevor er weiterspielt.

    Grüße
    André

    ps. wenn du den Knopf in der Kassentüre drückst, kannst du nach dem 2. Drücken die Lampen kontrollieren, die sollten dann alle blinken, nach dem 3. die Displays und beim 4. werden die Spulen nacheinander alle getestet.
    Alive and kicking
  • Hi,
    durchgebrannt sind immer nur die oberen Flipperfinger. Eine dieser Spulen sitzt fest..habe linken Finger und Spule ausgebaut….
    Jetzt geht der rechte untere Finger nicht mehr..Spule ist leichtgängig. Werde morgen weitermachen…übrigens , nur deine geduldige, kompetente Hilfe, hat es ermöglicht, den Outholefehler zu beheben.
    Thx
    Gun
  • Hi, liebe Flipperhelfer,
    nachdem die Oberdeckflipperfinger durchbrannten, habe ich sie abgetötet und muss neue Spulen ranmachen.
    Jetzt habe ich versucht, die unteren Finger zu testen. Der rechte geht nicht mehr. Ist der überhaupt richtig angeschlossen? Plus am Ring der Diode. Bei diesen Farben der Kabel, weiß ich das nicht. Also, richtig angeschlossen? Die Spule funktioniert.
    danke
    Gun
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